When last seen, your fearful travelers were quivering in fear of the North Dakota wastelands. Not wanting to leave Montana just yet we decided to take a couple of days exploring the Bear Paw Mts. south of Havre, Mt. We were delighted to find gently ascending hills into an area of pretty green hills at elevations of about 4000 ft. We spent a couple of days relaxing by the lake and taking some nice bike rides without carrying any gear. After a month of carrying 40 or 50 lbs of extra weight every day it was a joy to ride unencumbered. Being on bikes, we were lacking in cold beverages and after making friends with the very friendly RV campers next door we ended up accepting the offer of some cold beers. I must admit to drinking 4 Bud Lites (judging by the cans along the road, this the official beer of Montana. It does my heart glad to know all the Montanans drinking and driving are watching their weight) and spent most of the night getting up to pee...they sure were cold though.
Back in Havre we loaded up for the 13 hr train ride across No. Dakota. At the last minute we changed our destination to Fargo as it was on our Adventure Cycling route. In the Amtrak station we met David and Nick, two young cyclists from Wa. also skipping ND. They had ridden 60mi east of Havre before hearing the the horror stories of what lay waiting in ND before coming back to get the train.
For those of you who have never traveled by train, you must try it sometime. The seats are roomy, you can look at the scenery, and the whole experience is far more laid back than air travel. You can bring food or beverages on with you or eat in their dining car (try the chicken!) We spent the afternoon making Jack and Cokes with our new cyclist friends while watching the mind numbing scenery of ND glide by the viewing windows of our air conditioned car delighted by the fact that we were not cycling this 700 miles. Later, after dinner in the dining car, Kelly and I watched 4th of July fireworks light up the twilight sky under a full moon rising over the plains...very magical. Of course, the down side of train travel is rolling into Fargo, ND at 4am and having to reassemble your bikes for a walk to a motel for a couple hours sleep before shoving off for our next adventure.
Within minutes of leaving Fargo we entered Minnesota. We left the arid plains behind and entered the Corn (or soy) Belt. The riding was flat and easy with little traffic and beautiful farmland all around. Over the next two days (with several torrential downpours thrown in just to keep us on our toes...I also discovered that my 25 year old rain jacket is not waterproof...go figure!) we found our way to Fergus Falls and the start of the Central Lakes/Lk. Wobegon trail system. This is a wonderful bike trail that goes most of the way across Mn on old railroad bed. The pavement is "champagne powder" asphalt and the scenery is beautiful, going through endless cornfields and many lakes. The best part... no cars or hills more than a 2percent grade. Along the way, we were hailed by an older gentleman on a recumbent bike with hearty "Where ya from?" He said his name was Myrvin ("With a 'y'!!) Secord. He rides about 8000 mi a year and was on his way for an 80 mi jaunt this day. He informed us that the secret to a long life is "Get lot's of exercise, eat right, and don't use sun screen (causes cancer) or toilet paper...you ever see a cow or elephant use toilet paper?" He had me on that one...who am I to argue with success? We are now camped in the city park in Bowlus, Mn The gal in the cafe who is in charge of camping says "The bathroom doors lock at dusk so just stick a shoe in the door over night." The adventure continues as we head east into Wisconsin by day after tomorrow. We should make good time from here on and have a bet for our ETA in NJ...Kelly says Aug 15 or sooner and I have the 16th or later. Place your bets now and get a chance to win a slightly used bike saddle...I never want to see that thing again!
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